Problem № 1
I have here a 4T65E transmission, and what you’re looking at is the channel plate. There’s something I’m gonna do with this channel plate. There’s a problem that arises with it a lot of times and the problem is always with the AFL valve, which is actuator feed limit valve, but what happens over time is this AFL valve wears out the channel that it slides back and forth in, when it does that, it start to leak, it will cause solenoid codes, it will cause the transmission not to shift and it will ..you’ll get a code in air which is in 1811 which is whether is it maximum adapts and long shifts.
This AFL valve is a crucial valve because it applies pressure to various parts of the transmission. So one way to check this is to apply pressure to this hole here, I’ll show you this hole right here, and you’ll see this valve move, okay.
Sometimes it won’t move at all, sometimes it’ll move halfway, okay, in the spring. There’s a spring in front of it and if it can’t overcome that spring pressure then that means too much air is leaking out. Too bad. I’ll give you a demonstration.
See, see the oil, I’m applying everything that’s coming from that air compressor inside this hole here. I was to put some oil down here, you really see what it’s doing now, it should go back. A good valve should go back and hit this stopper which is stopping the spring, but it won’t go back that far. Okay, too much, too much oil this leaking out of here.
Now there’s a way to fix this. There’s two ways.
One is Sonic’s has a valve and you have to buy a Rhema – where you go inside here and you bore out the hole, then you put a sleeve in there that brings it back to its original size, and they got a butt valve that goes into the sleeve and it brings back the integrity. What it does, it also repaired a bore, but there is another one, another fix for that which is made by Superior. Their valve is k098.
I am going to show you how to install this one, the K098-valve. I used the Sonic’s valve a lot all the time, I used it because it just wouldn’t make it yet, but this valve is quicker to install, you don’t have to rave it and ultimately you will arrive at the same conclusion which is your transmission will shift, okay. Now, some will say the Sonic’s version is better because it actually clears the whole bore out, redo the bore, takes the wear out when you rame it out, put a sleeve in, put the valve oil. And some are against this one here because, even though it works the bore where there is flow there, but there is parts of that bore that’s not worn and it plucks this section where the oil cannot even escape out of here. No words.
How it works? It uses the full force of hydraulic pressure to push the valve. So let’s say that in order for this valve to move, 70 percent of oil pressure had to push the valve and only 30 percent escaped for it to be considered a good valve. All right, then as a wore, 60% will push it and 40% will escape. Well, if you got to where it was 50% and 50 coming out, then that’s when you will start to have your issue, because too much is going out, to where it is allowed 50% instead of 30% to come out.
So what this valve does, the superior valve, what it would do even though the bore is still worn.. you plug this hole here and 100% will come and push that valve forward. So let’s say it took 70 percent if you club the hole, the other 30% could not escape out, so where would that 30% go? It will help push to 70% so you have greater oil pressure pushing that valve to make sure that it will stroke, but also, they lengthen the land on the belt, as I mentioned there, as part of that area that is not worn so that it can still work, and it will accomplish the same thing.
Now as I said there, you have other, you know, various manufacturers, they fuss against each other and “Oh mine is better, this is better” but ultimately I look at the big picture – does the vehicle work, is the problem gone? Problem meaning that it’s shifting okay. And if it is shifting then that problem is solved. Now how long will this last now? They will go right with that type of with that argument “oh it’s not going to last that long”, but I always put one of these in and I’ve never had one to come back, and that’s after.. even after three years. So this is the one that I always do now, always put it in, and I’m going to show you how to install this valve right now, show you how to install the Sonic’s valve on this actuator feeds in it.
Okay, this is what comes in their little kit: you got a plug, you got a valve and you got a spring.
This valve is long here, the spring on this valve goes inside because they have nothing different; if the valve moves free in the board you won’t need this, but if it doesn’t then you need some fresh tools in order to clean the bore out. Now this is superior’s brush buddy kit, you can buy these also.
Whether you are going to take a screwdriver or something, you gotta take this, tear out this holder and make sure your hand is right here, because there’s a crane, gonna come out with it once you lift it up, I want to lose it. You’re not going to reuse it, but still maybe it’s the crane. Here he’s gonna reuse this, won’t reuse it and if it’s free already, you can just take a magnet and move it out, move it back. It’s not completely free, they’re not coming all the way out back there.That wasn’t too bad.
So this comes out, so as you see on the outside, the reason you see how this is this.. this valve, look here, spring gold on top of here. But if you look at superior’s valve, spring goes inside. They have made this section longer right here, so the part of the bore that’s warm.. that’s not warm, this part, the longest part of it, is going to help seal it and also it will kind of stabilize the valve a bit because it’s longer, okay. This part here won’t be as eliminated, so it looks like this is where.. it really looks like, right here, how is it going to fit in there? This part is eliminated and the pluck is going to pluck the part that this goes through.
Okay, I’ll show you now what you want to do. You want to reuse this valve here, you want to put some grease on the tip like that, put the pluck on it right on a tip, like that, you’re gonna use this to press this in, but first what you want to do is take that brush buddy or something and clean the inside, and then wash it out because you want it to slide easily.
Now you want to wash that out, okay. After you clean this out, this one here that you have this on the tip, what you’re gonna do, you’re gonna put this in and you’re gonna push this all the way back, okay. Just take the ball-peen hammer and you can knock this all the way flush, .It’s hard, gonna be hard to see but you don’t want to knock it to where it comes out too much here, because you don’t want it blowing out. It’s plucking this section here, okay, so you might knock it in a little bit more. You see, if we could see in there, when you start to just.. start to see it coming out right there, so I’ma knock it in a little more, you may have to use a screw or something, but you don’t want to mess up the inside of the bore. I got a little screw here.
You know like, I have anymore there, you could see it a little bit more, now you see it. And that’s about where I’m going to leave it, because you don’t want it to come all the way up. You come back all the way out. When you happen by mistake to knock it out, you probably won’t be able to use that plucking in because it won’t have the tension that holds itself in there. You may have to get a different foot or by another kit. Alright, so we got that now, this should move out easy. If it doesn’t, well here it goes, okay.
Could be the grease, that this has some grease in there, see. What I happen.. if I right now.. you can discard this valve because now you’re going to use this valve from superior, and what I’m gonna do, I’m going to clean this bar a little bit more and then I’m gonna wash it out of here. All right, now I have to get that in. The next step is to put this valve in, it goes in this way and then you spring it. That’s it.
You want to put some oil or something else in there so it can boil on here, and let some oil go down in here, in transmission, through whatever lubrication of your choice. You put that in like that, sliding in, you can see right away little oils popping out.
So next is to put your spring in. Then you have to put this part in, which holds that spring. I guess you can use a screwdriver there. You gotta hold that spring back and then slide this down. Let’s see. Make sure that spring doesn’t go anywhere and they have one. Now you want that spring to be in this proper position, this B all the way down. Now I’m going to show you what happens when I you don’t see nothing coming out of here. Now do..
okay, let me put some oil right here and let’s see what happens. See, anything spraying out of that. Sorry, now it should be a valve with stroking all the way to the back. Okay, let’s see if I can get you to see that bow. We should see it in here right there. Now, hear clicking? That’s what it’s supposed to do most.. the most important thing is that there’s nothing escaping out of here. So now it’s going to apply better pressure to the air so that oil is supposed to get to.. so this is how you change the valve with the superior valve which is the K… what is this thing, the K098.
Okay, again, when that is bad, it will cause no shifting, it will cause false shift solenoid coals. I’ve had it happen where we rebuilt this trans and could never get it work right, until we fixed this valve. When I fixed it the first time – with sonics valve, but I’ve always now so far recently have used the Superior valve, okay – it’s for the 1465E. Always changing, always.
This is the second clutch drum. Normally, the second cluster on there is no problem, other than what you need to do – always replace this piston, because over time with this thing sealing lip it leaks.
You have a little second gear, but also you have to check the drum. This drum in particular, you look at the sealing ring area, if you look down here, you’ll see that this drum here is grooved out pretty bad, okay, that’s that’s not good at all. If you look at this part, this doesn’t have any grooves, you see down here it does, it’s not good. So what you can do, you can try to sand it out.
If you can’t get rid of this wear mark down here, and that groove is still there, take this drum and throw it away, don’t use this drum because you want it to seal, okay. Here’s where I did a little standing here and still I had this. There’s a groove still there, so you have this issue here, you don’t want it leaking. Having a problem, you got to take the transparent, so make sure that you get rid of that, throw that thing away and get a better drum.
Alright, the next thing I want to show you is on the transmission itself. Something that I do. On this 4T65 there is a bonded piston, or, excuse me, bonded spacer plate, meaning the gasket does not come off, and when people are rebuilding this transmission, a lot of times instead of buying them a bonded plate from the dealer because it’s where you can get it from, it costs about $30, they just reuse this even though the gasket is still there. However, there has been some who’ve had problems with the gasket leaking, that fluid bypassing it, because it’s pressed inside. I mean, it’s glued, if you try to clean this plate off with a wire wheel it’s gonna take you about an hour to try and to just get all of this stuff off, so that’s it.
So again, people reuse it, they put it on and reuse it. I don’t. I don’t like doing that either by a bonded gasket from the dealer or what I have been doing recently, and it works fine, and it works only because this is so pressed on to the to the plate, it’s glued on very tightly and has been pressed on over time that it actually has become part of the plate. What I do:
- I take a new gasket, make sure you’ve got the right gasket here.
- Then I take the whole complete plate gasket in all, and set it on top of this. Make sure all the holes line up in the aftermarket gasket.
- Then I take the valve body part. This is the bow body. And I put it on top just like that.
- Then I take the valve body and put it on top of this, and then I tighten it.
So now you don’t have to worry about leaking because you did put a gasket on, so it has two gasket.. you know, well it’s it’s bonded to the plate so tightly that, again, it is part of the plate. So you can make sure that you satisfy yourself changing the gasket by doing what I just did, okay. And I’m gonna go get the valve body and we’ll put the valve body on here, okay. You don’t have to worry about if you have a a gasket that’s on a put pressure plate that’s impressed too much that you may get a cross leak, because now you have a gasket underneath that and a gasket on top of it. You just go ahead and and tighten your bolts down, and go on by your business. It will work, I do this all the time.
When this drum does not work, you will have no second gear. Simple as that. Second clutches are in here, you won’t have any second gear, but there’s no clutches in this one. What I’m going to do is show you what to look for.
This drum is normally, you know, normally doesn’t go bad, but you can have some things that will go bad over time. So one thing about this drum, the reason I say that to show you, was the clutches. This part here hooks on to the splines or this Sun shale over the 4T65. You have to look at it closely because it can wear out.
You see if I can show you that, you should be able to see that this part here, where are we, alright, we over here, okay, you can see right here where this part is starting to wear. So a person who may can take a chance on reusing that drum, but you don’t want this to.. you know this is pushed, it gouged out pretty much here, I’ve never used one to see how long this would last, so I mean if you have this much that it gouged to, so perhaps it takes another hundred thousand miles before it gets to this part. But in any event, if I see a drum like this, I don’t use it, and then we get rid of it. You can get another one. Okay, it’s your choice if you want to try it. Maybe you’re trying to put it together to just, you know, just for lasting for a few months and maybe we can go ahead and use it.
One other thing. I want you to see on this drum here and hopefully you can see, here is where the sealing rings ride. And what you see are wear marks right here, right here and right here. Okay, now there is a thin looking Ridge on the drum right here. I don’t think this is on all of them, but it’s on some of them, right here, that Ridge is no.. is not a problem because the sealing rings do not ride on that, they ride above here, you can see where the indications is, they’re coming in the middle. This drum is just made that way, with this thin Ridge. Okay, right, right here this thin area right here, you could see the wear mark up here, this dark edge, okay. So don’t worry about that if you got a drum like that, that won’t cause an issue, okay.
So the main thing on this drum you want to pay attention to is if it applies, and pay attention to these parts here that can contact the sunshield. Again, if it doesn’t apply, you won’t have second gear.
Now this second clutch drum has grooves in it, okay. So I showed you about the ridge which is right here, there’s the ridge if you look in here. Let’s see if we can go up deeper here, you can see that this one has grooves right here, that’s a groove, that’s a groove right there, here’s that little Ridge right there, that’s okay, but this is where the sealing ring rides. That is not good.
So what you try to do with this is if you can’t sand it out, but this is kind of deep, but if you can’t do a light sanding and get back to it, and the best thing to do with this drum is just to get rid of it and get another one, okay. So this is a drum that is bad, that does have ring grooves inside, okay. You can you can see that real good if you look down in there, you can see that groove right here, that’s kind of deep.
I’m going to show you some things. When you got to have a strong air compressor, okay, and you blow in the right hole. I want you to hear something. Did you hear that? That was just a little amount of air, and you can see this this movement just a little bit, okay. Now if I hit this harder, you hear now one other thing I want to show you. So this drum is applying, alright.
Now you will hear some air from this gun, so I’m losing air pressure, but this drum is thumping, just like that. When it thumps like that, you know that this drum is working, you could hear it. I mean that’s a hard thump and I’m watch how I press this, you know, I’m not even pressing that hard. You can still hear now around this area, here you will see some leakage.
Why? Because it’s designed to do that. Why is it designed to do that? If you look at the inside here, you will see there is some grooves right here where the bushings are and a little oil goes by, or air, in this case this is air. But when this oil goes by to lubricate these bushings as its spinning, also teflon sealing rings do not seal like a rubber o-ring, they do not seal that well with air testing. They will do seal very well when oil is going through them or used to apply to piston because oil is volumous, thicker volume, air is.. it is.. air is lighter, okay, so it will escape, but if you have the right amount of air pressure, it will apply that piston, okay.
As we can see, this drum applies, and it applies very well. When it doesn’t apply, you won’t have second gear out, I assure you that. And what I have seen have been the issue with it not applying was that the piston down there, the rubber molded piston was always bad. I mean it’s thin to begin with, but for some reason there were edges of it, I guess they were thinner, and it doesn’t allow it to apply. So if you see these things, as long as you got a good thump then you’re okay.
Problem № 4
INPUT CLUTCH PISTON
I have the input to clutch drum here and I’m going to show you a piston. This is the piston that goes down all the way in the bottom of this drum. This is a piston that you need to pay attention to when you are rebuilding this transmission, because what happens is this piston, the middle part of it right around the edge of this drum here, when it does that, it grooves out.
Okay, let’s see if you can see. You can see this is clear, but if you go around, you start to see a ridge right there, you’re gonna see that, this ridge right here.
Okay, now that’s a gouge. So you put it up a bit where you could possibly see it it’s a gouge right there. Now, you can try to sand this out now. If you got a round circle, like this is, when you’re sanding, you only make it oblong a little bit as you start to sand it out.
I’ll show you what I mean. But what this starts to do, this seal, right, right there.. but what it does, this part here starts to tear the seal up and if you can look at this seal here, let’s see if I can see where it was tearing it, chewing up the edge of it up. Let’s see if you can see this little rubber right here, the edge of it is.. it’s been chewed up right here, some of them get cut, some of them become cut, and it’s that ridge that cuts it, so you have to pay attention to that here’s one right here, and I’m gonna see if you can see the inside of this groove here.
You probably see that groove right there and there’s one on it, and my finger has a piece of rubber that was cut off, and here’s the rubber right here that’s destroyed. So you can see that. Why? Because as this rubs up and as it moves up and down, it goes against that ridge and it cuts it, okay.
All right, now you probably can see that ridge a little better right there, right here that’s the ridge there, okay. So you have to pay attention to this thing, it costs about $30. Now, if you can sand it back to a smooth surface without over sanding it, then you can probably reuse this drum because in a kit.. in a kit the lips seals are a little wider, that comes in the kit, okay.
But when you’re sanding, and I’m gonna show you what I mean, if you want to sand this drum, what you would be doing is taking some sandpaper, we’re going to inside, right, just trying to sand this smooth. But let me tell you what you’re actually doing when you do that.
You have a circle here, and that’s supposed to be a circle, it’s supposed to be the inside of my.. let me try that, okay. I use this to make it a better circle. So when you’re sanding the inside of this circle, don’t worry about this circle here, what you’re actually doing is you’re sanding it and you’re making that circle kind of oblong, like that, because you’re only sanding the bad back to the good. But you are making it oblong when you sand it, so you must make sure that when you sand it, you’re not sanding so much, because you will create a leak right there.
The seal is round, you have to just sand, sand, sand, you know,
maybe a little, to try, tp just make it.. to see if you can get that edge out. But if you can’t get it out, then you have to throw this away and buy a new one or get a good used one, and hopefully somebody didn’t sand it back and then you’ll be messed up.
But this is another drum that you have to pay attention to. Mostly all the time I see this gouge inside this drum, so I either have to sand it back a little bit, not too much, sand it back a little bit, or get another one and put it in, okay. So that’s something that you have to consider once again when rebuilding this 4T65E transmission.
Problem № 5
DRIVE SPROCKET SUPPORT
This is a drive supports rocket or drive sprocket. You don’t normally see this sprocket going bad, but you can’t allow that to lull you into thinking that it would never go bad. It’s not a part that is often checked, but it should be checked.
Why? Because on the inside, as you can see, it is starting to get gouged out around this area right there, which is getting very close to this hole here.
Okay, so what does that mean? What it means is that when you are rebuilding this transmission, even though there are certain parts that seem to be bulletproof on this transmission, you may get caught one day if you don’t check out this drive support sprocket. Again, you can see here where it’s clear, it’s nice and clean around there and it’s gouging right inside of here. Okay, you get a sprocket like that, you know what to do. Get rid of it.
Now let’s see, I don’t think that they make a sleeve to press this out. Let me see if they made a sleeve to press it out and it’s possible that you can… It will come out, look, like, it will. I don’t know if there’s a sleeve for that, never had to get a sleeve, never really have problems with this. But see, what happens is after things get rebuilt and then somebody else rebuilds it after that and then somebody else rebuilds it after that, eventually, you’ll be left without a chair because it’s like a game of musical chairs – somebody at the end is gonna have to do more than somebody who did it at the beginning. So you never know who went to something and when it was rebuilding, how long..
I see a lot of transmissions here that has been rebuilt by Jasper and by certified, and some of the other ones. You know, I know their the colors, and I.. Jasper have his name on there, so yes, I get some of their transmissions, too. After it’s going out of warranty, it breaks down also, so once again, you gotta pay attention to these things. You don’t know how many miles your that transmission actually has on it, so okay, drive support sprocket. Pay attention to that gouge there.