F150 Leveling Kit Problems

Question 1

I’ve been looking for anything I can to check if there are any problems with the F150s 2015-16 leveling, but I haven’t found any. There were so many reviews and negative issues I read when I levelled my 2013 that I was strongly suggested to make a maximum leveling kit of 2″. I just got my 2016 Screw XLT FX4, and my 2.5″ R/C kit just came in but I am as nervous as hell about the plumbing. All I can find here are photos of all the trucks at the 2.5″ level and they all look really good, but what’s different about those trucks I was so warned about on my 2013? What makes me more jittery is the RC kit for the new 15-16, which is exactly the same as the predecessor with a different Sku. Does somebody know about any trouble? Thanks in advance.

Question 2

I have a 2006 F1W 2WD, and I bought a 2.5-inch HBS alignment kit and installed it myself about 6 months ago, and I never had any problems with its friction or anything else. Today I changed the spacers to Monroe’s reflex spacers. I squeezed the spring from my old ones and put on a new rack. I also changed my upper control arms because my ball bearings were bad. There was no problem with that. When I start to collect everything together, I notice that my upper control lever is clamped under one of the turns of the spring when I try to screw it down. I took the pry bar, took it off and finished assembling everything together, hoping that this would ease all the pressure when I lowered the jack, but it was still touching the control lever. I just completely deleted the alignment kit because it was unsafe to ride it, but I would like to get it back somehow. I just need alignment, since I changed my control arms? I’m at a dead end and not sure where to go from here.

Answers

Here in Houston, theres an installer who wont put anything more than 1.5 “because they had problems with something bigger than that, but the other two big guys only quoted me 2-1 / 2” so I think it might be a cab mistake.

I tend to leap of faith because I just got out of my 2013 with a 2-inch level transition at 295 60/20. I feel like I’m leaning forward in the wagon fleet right now. I still find it crazy, they come like this stock. I guess the whole point is to have the best MPG they can release there. I am towing a bit too, so I’m probably going to replace the unit at the back, but to get this aligned need to change the rack and get more tires.

Thanks guys for your feedback. Hopefully someone else with a few miles might intervene.

Guys, I have a 15 inch Lariat FX4 long bed with a heavy towbar and 20 inch PVD rims. I plan to make a 2-level RC kit with blocks and shock absorbers at the rear. Unfortunately, due to budget reasons, I am going to stick to the action of the 20s if someone here cannot connect me to the LOL deal! I want to run 305 55 of the 20s on it and want to see if anyone else is working here with a similar installation? and think about it. He also thinks about plastic lowering the discs to darken them. any thoughts or recommendations?

I watch this thread because I want to go with a 2-inch AS level, 305 55R20 on my standard wheels and rear airbags for towing. I would go with a full AS level with a spring kit, but I don’t want the back more than 1/2 “or higher than the front. Any suggestions? How about just adding a block 1/2” higher than oem, which works great on the rail when I tow.

I have this kit in my truck, and I installed it on more than 55 thousand, and no problems with the front or kit.

I installed a 2.5-inch ready-made leveling lift kit on my 2010 F1TR XTR, and I didn’t need to remove the top ball joint or link. I simply removed the 2 bolts of the lower control lever using a small jack under the lower control lever to help loosen the removal bolts. Note: Mark the position of the lower control lever on the frame before removing the nuts from these bolts. This will return the front to its original alignment position. You still need to make a trip to the leveling store.

As long as the front is raised high enough from the floor, you can easily remove and reinstall the stand. Yo will need to raise the lower control lever to its original position to install 2 bolts after installing the lower strut bolt.

Installation time took me about 1.5 hours.

To answer your question, no, I did not complete the installation. I tried unsuccessfully to insert the rack, the next step was to remove the bolts of the lower control lever. However, my brother ended up stepping back into my passenger door, wing and mirror. So now the project has been suspended while my truck is in the workshop. the same store said they would put an elevator for $ 100, so Im probably just going with them, saving me a few headaches.

I went to Sears and this guy allowed me to walk away with the sleeve of the large 1/2 “drive sockets to determine the size of the bottom bolt and nut. I believe it was 28 mm for the bolt head and 30 mm for the nut. Get truly good fraudster length! The tightening torque of the bolt is ~ 250 pounds!